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What is a Etrier?

An etrier (often called an aid ladder or aider) is a piece of climbing equipment used primarily in aid climbing and big wall climbing to help climbers ascend steep or difficult rock faces by stepping up on gear rather than relying on natural holds. Made of a series of webbing loops or steps sewn together, the etrier is attached to protection points like cams, nuts, or bolts placed in the rock, allowing the climber to progress by stepping into the loops.

Key Features of an Etrier

  • Material: Typically made from durable, lightweight webbing or nylon, etriers are designed to hold weight securely while being easy to carry and store.
  • Steps or Loops: Etriers have multiple steps or loops, usually arranged vertically, so climbers can step up from one to the next. These steps are often reinforced to hold their shape, making it easier to find and place a foot even when hanging on steep walls.
  • Attachment Point: The top of the etrier has an attachment point (often a loop or carabiner) that can be connected to protection gear placed in the rock, such as a cam or piton, allowing the climber to ascend.

How Etriers Are Used in Aid Climbing

  • Attach to Anchor: The climber attaches the etrier to an anchor point or a piece of protection gear, such as a cam or nut.
  • Step Up in Sequence: The climber steps into the lowest loop, gradually moving to higher loops, lifting themselves up to the level of the placed protection.
  • Shift to New Protection: After reaching the highest step, the climber places another piece of protection above and attaches a second etrier. They then repeat the process, using the new etrier to progress.
  • Use of Multiple Etriers: Aid climbers may use one or two etriers to alternate between placements, making it easier to balance and maintain upward movement.

Advantages of Etriers

  • Progress on Steep or Blank Surfaces: They allow climbers to ascend rock that lacks adequate hand- and footholds.
  • Efficient on Long, Multi-Pitch Routes: Especially on big walls, etriers enable climbers to conserve energy, avoiding the intense physical demand of free climbing.

Etriers are an essential piece of gear for climbers tackling aid routes, big walls, and any situation where relying on gear placements for upward movement is necessary.

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